Monday, February 9, 2009

Way down upon the Suwannee River...

February 5th: Leaving St Andrews, we head back to the mainland at Panama City and push on east into the Florida Panhandle. A quick word on State campsites – we think that the best US states for campgrounds (‘best’ in environment, facilities, value and upkeep) are Oregon, Louisiana and Florida. All three seem to pick the most beautiful sites and provide the best overall facilities – plenty of space, reliable water and electricity and lots to do. As ex-tenters, we appreciate the natural beauty and spaciousness, as current RVers, we also now appreciate being able to ‘plug in’!
OK, the Panhandle coast road continues to take us through many small villages and towns, like St Joes, Mexico Beach. Since this area is within a couple of hours drive of Tallahassee (Florida's capital for non-US readers), the towns are beginning to see more vacation homes being built. Fortunately, they are widely spaced and seem to be built with an eye to protecting the local beauty. Very laid back, and no tee-shirt shops (yet). There is another great State campground at St George’s, another barrier island. But with regret, we are intent on moving further today. The first photo is typical of the shoreline - small beaches, tree-lined, interesting ruined wooden structures like jetties, etc. Probably the result of hurricanes. Yes, we are in hurricane country. The local Red Cross has a sign up reminding people that hurricane season starts in May and to get prepared!
Our objective is Manatee Springs (another State campground). We visited here several years ago. It is on the Suwannee River, as it flows south out of Georgia, to the Gulf of Mexico. This part of Florida, at the junction of the Panhandle and the main north/south part of the state, is full of springs. Manatee is so named because the manatee flock to it, from the Suwannee River, to enjoy the warmth of the springs. Florida’s springs come from underground caverns left in the limestone by erosion over the centuries. At Manatee is one of the best examples of a warm spring, disgorging thousands of gallons of warm water every day into the river. If you are in this part of the country, do not miss it.
If you are a diver, there is also a large pool in the park which is connected via subterranean caves to the springs. Being a diver myself, I'm not sure I could do it - the surface is covered with bright green algae and the water beneath is black as pitch. The thought of going down there with headlights to find one's way several hundred yards through caves to the springs does not sit well.
Carlsbad was enough of an adventure!
One of the highlights, after viewing the springs, is to trace the wooden walkway, high above the swamp, through the cypress trees, cloaked with moss, down to the jetty on the river where most visitors manage to see manatee. Not the Fishers of course – we’ve been twice but still haven’t seen them! But we do see lots of other wildlife – deer, egrets, mullet, sturgeon, and flocks of vultures which hang out in the tops of the trees lining the river. One photo shows one of the snowy egrets, waiting for a frog in the swamp! and the other, twilight looking down the Suwannee River. It is very quiet as we stand on the jetty, watching the mullett swimming below us, hoping for a manatee or three. The noise is broken only by the vultures as they swoop from tree to tree - they make no sound other than an eerie swishing of their great wings.
Anyway, we walk back to our campsite through the gathering dark and turn in for another very cold night.

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